Hoa Lu Ancient Capital: Vietnam’s Best-Kept Secret
Is Hoa Lu Ancient Capital Worth Visiting?
Hoa Lu Ancient Capital is one of those places that quietly earns its place on your Ninh Binh itinerary, even when Trang An and Tam Coc are stealing all the attention.
Most people plan a trip to Ninh Binh and then discover Hoa Lu almost as an afterthought. You see it listed on tour itineraries, maybe squint at it on Google Maps, and think, “Is it actually worth my time, or is it just a quick temple stop between the good stuff?”
That is a fair question.
Vietnam had to start somewhere. Before Hanoi became the capital, before the country stretched from north to south, there was Hoa Lu. A limestone valley fortress. The seat of power for emperors like Dinh Tien Hoang and Le Dai Hanh in the 10th and 11th centuries, when Vietnam was still fighting to define itself. Standing inside the temple grounds, with the karst mountains rising up around you like natural walls, you start to understand why they chose this place.
I visited as part of a longer Ninh Binh tour that took in Bai Dinh Pagoda, the Trang An boat tour, and the Hang Mua cave trek. Hoa Lu was the stop I expected least from, and the one that surprised me most.
There is something about walking the grounds on a hot 33-degree afternoon, with barely anyone around and just birdsong and incense smoke for company, that gets under your skin in the best way.
Whether you are planning this as a couple looking for a shared experience that goes a bit deeper than boat rides, or a solo traveller piecing together the story of Vietnam, this guide covers everything you need. The temples, the history, the entrance fees, how long to spend there, and whether you need a tour or can sort it yourself.
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🇻🇳 Hoa Lu Quick Guide 🇻🇳
🕰️ A Glimpse Into Vietnam’s First Capital
Hoa Lu Ancient Capital was the capital of Vietnam from 968 to 1010, during the Đinh and Early Lê dynasties.
⏱️ Best Tour
Hanoi: Ninh Binh, Trang An, Mua Cave and Bai Dinh Pagoda, Ninh Binh 4-in-1 Daily Tour: Cave, Temple & Scenic Landscape
💰 Entrance Fee
Around 20,000 VND (less than $1.00), making it one of the cheapest attractions in Ninh Binh.
⏱️ How Long to Spend
Most visitors spend 45–90 minutes exploring the temples and grounds.
Where Is Hoa Lu Ancient Town?
Hoa Lu is located around 16 kilometres from Tam Coc, and when I visited, I made my way there in a shared taxi, which cost me $8.00.
The scenery all around is beautiful. Limestone cliffs are found right beside the ancient capital, as well as wild goats making noise as you walk around. It’s peaceful, feels secluded, and whilst loads of tourists will flock there, you can easily reach it via taxi, motorbike, or bicycle.
There is plenty of parking right beside the bridge next to Nhà hàng Hà Linh, should you need to park up.
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When To Visit?
The best time to visit Hoa Lu is from late April to early June.
When I visited a bit later in early August, it was hot but not crazy busy with tourists, which I loved.
It was hot and humid with some days of heavy downpours, but when I went, thankfully, it stayed dry all day. You’ll get mixed conditions in August, but for more certain weather, with bigger crowds, go earlier in the summer.
The best time to enter is early in the morning or late afternoon to avoid peak group tours and have more space and calm for an enjoyable experience.
Read My 5 Days In Vietnam Itinerary: For First Timer Visitors
Hoa Lu Ancient Capital Entrance Fee
The entrance fee is 20,000 Vietnamese dong, which works out to $0.76, so it’s very affordable.
The site is open from 07.00 AM to 05.00 PM every day.
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Getting There
I ordered a Grab taxi, which took me from Tam Coc centre right to the entrance of Hoa Lu Ancient Capital.
It cost me approximately $8.00, and the distance is 16 kilometres, taking about half an hour.
I could have rented a bike from my hotel or from the many bike rental shops in the town. Additionally, there’s always a motorbike or scooter to rent, or you can join the same group tour as I did and go that way.
I recommend booking this tour because it made it so easy and included some of Tam Coc’s most epic and famous sites. The Hang Mua Cave was astonishing to trek at sunset. The Bai Dinh Pagoda was truly beautiful, especially from the sky. The Trang An boat experience was blissfully one of my favourite experiences in all of Tam Coc.
You can combine all these major sites into this highly rated tour, which I loved!
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History Of Hoa Lu
Hoa Lu has an amazing history in Vietnam.
It was the national capital between 968 and 1009, packed with old limestone cliffs and rice fields, which fed the region. Many Vietnamese monarchies had it as the economic and political centre in the 10th century.
In the third month of every lunar year, Hoa Lu has an annual festival. The reason for this is to remember Vietnam’s history between 968 and 1010, when the capital moved from Hoa Lu to Hanoi in the north.
Many tombs of remarkable people from the dynasty are found here, which will be covered below.
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Best Things To Do And See
Marvel At The Entrance Gate
When I got to the ancient temple, I found myself staring at the entrance gate.
Surrounded by amazing limestone cliffs, lush after some heavy rains, and the stone bridge crossing the river, it felt like I was part of a historic movie in Vietnam.
Pause here for some photos of the iconic site.
Trek To The Emperor Viewpoint To Find Tomb Of The First Emperor
Climb the numerous steps to the top of the viewpoint.
I’ll admit getting there wasn’t so hard, even in the heat of midday, but when I got there, the tomb was more impressive than the view.
Trees covered large areas of access to the views all around, which was disappointing, but maybe when you visit, there will be better visibility on offer. Still, I found it to be one of the best activities to do when visiting Hoa Lu Ancient Capital.
You can take a break on the rocks at the top and look down from the viewpoint above.
Walk The Streets Of Hoa Lu
I found this to be very peaceful and enjoyable.
Simply walking around and feeling the history of the ancient capital, and visiting the temples at a leisurely pace. It can be hard to do things leisurely in Vietnam because it can be chaotic in places like Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, but here it was a breeze.
I loved feeding the fish (cost 15,000 Vietnamese dong) in the ponds beside the Temple of Emperor Le Dai Hanh and the Temple of Emperor Đinh Tiên Hoàng.
Explore Temple Of Emperor Le Dai Hanh
I found this 10th-century place of worship commemorating the founding leader of the Le Dynasty.
It’s where most tourists will gather, and smelling the incense as you walk around and seeing the statues and Buddha was a nice atmosphere and way to spend some time.
It was reconstructed in the 17th century, and I enjoyed the amazing courtyards and stone carvings found throughout.
Discover Temple Of Emperor Đinh Tiên Hoàng
Similar to the Temple of Emperor Le Dai Hanh, this temple is only 400 metres away but packs just as much impressiveness.
It has the same wood and stone carvings and was created back in the 17th century. When I visited, it felt very natural with trees all around, and feeding the fish here was a nice way to rest from the sun high above in the sky.
Take some time to walk around and admire the stone walls and carvings to appreciate all the details of the site.
Stroll To Chùa Kim Ngân
If you have the energy, or even better, come on bikes, make your way to Chùa Kim Ngân.
It took me about 15 minutes to walk from the Temple of Emperor Đinh Tiên Hoàng to get there, but it was so worth it.
I found a handful of people here, so it felt hidden away from the world. The Buddhist temple had a beautiful pond in front, and seeing the limestone cliffs through any gap in the trees was impressive.
Leaving you with another kilometre to go to reach Duyen Ninh Pagoda.
Go Further To Duyen Ninh Pagoda
If you’re feeling exhausted at any time, you can quit, but the last place worth going to is Duyen Ninh Pagoda.
My favourite thing here was the statue in the pond of the woman making a gesture with her hands. It stands out as a white statue with the cliffs closely surrounding the temple. There was some passionfruit growing at the back of the temple, and it again had few people to disturb our peace.
Most people don’t go this far, but if you can, I recommend doing so.
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Tips For Visiting Hoa Lu
I recommend bringing some key items to ensure your trip to Hoa Lu goes smoothly.
These include:
- Sunscreen
- Mosquito repellent
- Lots of water
- Sunglasses
- Cap
- Cash to pay for tickets and get snacks
- Camera
- Snacks like fruit, nuts, chocolate, and juice for energy (I can’t remember seeing many places to buy snacks inside the complex)
- Don’t go abroad without comprehensive travel insurance. I have used and trust Safety Wing.
Toilets are located near the bridge at the entrance and behind the temples. You can take a coffee break at Cố Đô Restaurant & Coffee.
Conclusion – Should You Visit Hoa Lu?
Hoa Lu is the ancient capital of Vietnam, and its history drew me there.
When I arrived early, there were moments when few tourists wandered the temple grounds. Most kept moving, so it never felt overwhelming, which I appreciated.
However, it felt less impressive compared to Hang Mua Cave or the Trang An boat tour, which was truly exhilarating. Those offered magical Vietnamese landscapes you could dream about, whereas Hoa Lu had smaller temples focused on peace and calm, which is enjoyable too, don’t get me wrong. But it may not suit couples or solo travellers seeking high-octane adventure.
I still recommend visiting if you have even an hour to spare and want to see something historically significant in one of Vietnam’s most exciting regions. Two hours is better.
Kazakhstan and Vietnam proved that travel insurance is essential for me. A couple of moments I didn’t see coming made me very glad I had it.
Any questions? Just drop me a message.
Thanks for reading,
James
FAQs
Is Hoa Lu Ancient Capital Worth Visiting?
Hoa Lu is worth visiting, though I expected more. If you enjoy history, you’ll love it. This was the ancient capital of Vietnam, after all, and there are stunning viewpoints, temples, and natural scenery all around. I recommend visiting when you’re in Tam Coc or Ninh Binh. Take a tour from Tam Coc or rent a scooter to get there.
Is Hoa Lu An Ancient Capital?
Yes, Hoa Lu is the ancient capital of Vietnam. In the 10th and 11th centuries, this is where political and cultural life flourished. The Dinh, Former Le, and early Ly dynasties ruled the region at different times. Today, it’s part of the UNESCO-recognised Tràng An Scenic Landscape Complex. The limestone mountains and pagodas are remarkable and worth visiting in my view.
How Long To Spend At Hoa Lu?
I recommend spending a maximum of 3 hours at Hoa Lu, and that would be plenty. You can trek up to the temple on top of the viewpoint at the Tomb of the First Emperor. The views weren’t special, but it was a mini challenge while there. It didn’t take long, so once that was finished, I recommend strolling around and visiting the Temple of Emperor Đinh Tiên Hoàng, Temple of Emperor Le Dai Hanh, and Chùa Kim Ngân. It won’t take long to walk from temple to temple, which makes life way easier.
- Hoa Lu Ancient Capital: Vietnam’s Best-Kept Secret
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