4000 Islands, Laos: My EPIC Travel Guide
Located in the Mekong River’s stunning 4000 Islands region, Don Det and Don Khon are two of Laos’ most beautiful yet underrated destinations. After spending five days exploring both of these islands, I can confidently say this peaceful region offers something special for nature lovers and adventurers.
When our small wooden boat departed from the mainland dock at Nakasong, it felt like stepping into a different world. One where time slows down and daily life revolves around the mighty Mekong.
The journey itself previews what’s ahead: an authentic escape where bicycles replace cars and watching the sun sink into the river becomes a nightly tradition.
If you’re wondering about logistics, the 4000 islands have grown to offer plenty of comfortable guesthouses and hotels while keeping their natural charm intact. Getting here is straightforward with some basic planning, and the island’s friendly community makes visitors feel welcome and secure.
In this guide, I’ll walk you through everything about visiting – from exciting activities and lesser-known spots to practical tips I gathered during my stay.
Before you leave, ensure you pack all the essentials for a trip to Southeast Asia.
Disclosure: Some of the links on this page are affiliate links, which means that if you make a booking through them, I may earn a commission at no additional cost to you. See my Privacy Policy.
Map Of The 4000 Islands
The attractions are marked with purple, the ferry terminals are yellow, and Don Det and Don Khon are below.
Travelling to Vang Vieng after the 4000 Islands? Find out all the best things to do in Vang Vieng in my detailed guide.
How To Get To The 4000 Islands
This will depend on where you come from.
When we visited the 4000 Islands, we crossed the Cambodian border (Trapaingkriel Border Checkpoint Stung Treng) in a shared minivan from Siem Reap.
This border crossing is notorious for being difficult, and our experience was exactly that.
The minivan (we used Sarah transport) from Siem Reap to Don Khon cost us $38.00 per person, and you can buy tickets here. You can also use the same company to get to any other major city in Laos, including Vientiane, Pakse, Luang Prabang or Vang Vieng, so keep this in mind when planning your exit from the 4000 islands.
You can also just arrange your transport to your hotel. This is very common in Southeast Asia.
Border guards were unfriendly and shouted at many travellers for asking basic questions.
The situation was tense. One guard tried to bribe me, but after firmly refusing, they didn’t pursue it further.
After changing minivans at the border, we arrived at Nakasong Pier, where everyone exited and hopped on a motorboat ferry.
After stopping first at the pier on Don Det, we made the 6-kilometre journey to the riverbank in Don Khon, where a floating pier greeted us. We climbed the stairs to the main road through Don Khon.
Make sure you have your camera or phone handy to take pictures and videos of the ride because it is so peaceful and soothing as the boat glides across the water and the engine ticks along rhythmically.
Where To Eat On Don Det And Don Khon?
There are plenty of options when it comes to food.
Fresh fish and Indian food are common. Thankfully for budget travellers, they are generally affordable. While I feel Don Khon was more limited in terms of choices, Don Det had way more options.
Datta Bananaleaf Restaurant was quite nice on Don Det.
We sat right beside the river in an elevated spot and could watch locals pass by as we enjoyed our meal.
Another really nice place was Tokham Sarnxok, where we enjoyed an excellent meal overlooking the Historic Bridge. The coconut smoothie and lok lak were both delicious and satisfying.
Lastly, right beside our guesthouse was Lao Long Restaurant. Reasonably priced and easy to get to along Don Khon’s riverbank road.
Another popular eatery to mention is NamFon Sunset Restaurant, which offers a mix of European and Laotian food at good, affordable prices.
Overall, I found the food in the 4000 islands to be simple, tasty, and reasonably priced compared to Cambodia and Thailand.
You can expect to pay around 25,000 KIP (€1.00) for a Laotian meal like a fried coconut curry, whereas a spaghetti with fish could cost around 30,000 KIP.
Where To Stay?
Don Det
Don Det is the smaller of the two main islands where travellers stay.
We cycled around the edge of the island and, to my surprise, the roads were very good in parts. Every corner of Don Det has options for you to stay.
Some of the best places to stay include:
Sompong Sunset View Guest House
Bontai Riverside Cottages & Long-Stay Residences
Don Khon
This island was fabulous in every sense.
We stayed at Pan Guest House Don Khone, and loved it. We had a mosquito net and very fast WiFi included in our room.
Not to mention, we had an amazing pool right on the riverbank where we could watch the sunset over the river.
Breakfast was basic, usually eggs with toast and coffee, but we could eat it on the river, which was beautiful.
There was a bike shop next door where we rented bikes for less than a dollar a day, and we could explore with ease after settling in.
Some other notable guesthouses to consider include:
Best Things To Do At The 4000 Islands
Cycle Around The Islands Of Don Det And Don Khon
If I could cycle anywhere in the world again, it would be around the island of Don Det.
There are numerous bike shops to rent from for a very cheap price for the day. We rented from a shop about ten metres from our hotel.
The cost was absurdly cheap, about $1.00 for a day.
The bikes were completely efficient in getting around the island without any real issues.
You can rent them for a couple of days if you like, just make sure to bring them back as you found them.
One real highlight of this trip was the nature of Laos. You could pass goats or cattle roaming the streets or grazing the fields of the island.
You can stop off where you like for tea and coffee and continue your journey to the lush Laotian countryside.
You can explore the waterfalls of the island or the coves along the river. Or see the Laotian rice fields in full glory.
For me, this was one of the best things we did in the 4000 islands.
Cost: $1.00 Per Bike
Bike Shop Location: You will see many shops in Don Det and Don Khon as you walk the streets.
You can ask other tourists who are riding bikes. We got ours from here, a shop about 10 metres from Pan Guesthouse.
Recommended time: All day
Visit Li Phi Somphamit Waterfalls
Another wonderful thing to do in Don Khon is to visit Li Phi Somphamit Waterfalls.
The water here is fast, and the rock formations are bigger than I’ve ever experienced. Swimming here is not recommended!
Amazingly, the noise of the water rushing down the river and crashing in the fall was a nice experience.
I could see some locals on the Don Det side of the river scaling the rock on the man-made wooden paths.
Also, I would guess they use it to access the river for fishing, but it looked risky to me, and I certainly wouldn’t try what they were doing!
Speaking of waterfalls, another notable mention is the world’s widest waterfall, known as Khone Phapheng Falls, situated approximately 7 km from Don Khon.
This waterfall will likely be easily reached from the mainland, where bus services will run from Nakasong.
Naksaong is the main ferry terminal, and it is from here that we got a boat to the Don Det Ferry terminal before our last trip to Don Khon.
I also have found that others have travelled directly from the Trapaing Kreal border to the falls.
Cost: Free
Location: XW37+RXG, Khon Tai, Laos
Recommended time: 1 hour
Take A Boat Tour Around The 4000 Islands
When you visit the 4000 islands, you must rent a boat and explore the river.
We rented a boat and driver for a couple of hours, and he took us slowly along the Mekong River, where we could witness locals’ reliance on the river, and it was beautiful to see.
Sadly, we did have to cancel our first booking after ten minutes out on the boat because of poor weather, so the following day we came back when the sky was clearer.
The Mekong River runs all the way from China, through Laos and Cambodia and finishes in southern Vietnam.
It was spectacular to simply sit on the boat and appreciate this crucial river and its importance.
Whether it was kids swimming and playing in the water, locals using boats to be transported to the mainland or fishermen out on their own catching the day’s dinner.
It really showed us how important the Mekong is to the people who live on its banks and beyond.
I was able to photograph some daily life along the river.
Cost: $10.00
Location: We left from Don Khon Ferry Terminal. Most hotels and guesthouses will advertise a tour. We booked through our hotel.
Recommended time: 3 hours
Visit The Secluded Khon Tai Beach
Now this was an experience!
We cycled our way down (and up with great difficulty) the path that led to Khon Tai Beach.
The road suddenly ends, and you have to navigate down a steep, stony path about 200 metres to get to the beach. Be careful on the descent.
We were greeted by a man lying in a hammock within what looked like an abandoned restaurant.
We did ask if he was open, but sadly, he was not. So lunch had to wait!
Once you step onto the sand at the beach, you will first be impressed with how high the water can be in the wet season.
This will be visible with the river bank as you can clearly see where its highest point is meters below. You can stroll over to the water, and there may be a couple of boats tied to the bank.
One pleasant fellow came over to start his boat while we were sitting at the riverbank (and being eaten by mosquitoes), and he set off down the river as the roar of his engine gradually diminished into silence.
Although it was cloudy during our journey to Khon Tai Beach, I can imagine that on a sunny day, it could be an ideal place to lie in the sun and relax.
But who wants to do that when you have a fantastic, mysterious island to explore? Get yourself a bike and be on your way is my advice.
Cost: Free
Location: WWV9+QCF, Khon Tai, Laos
Recommended time: 1-2 hours
Visit The Old French Port
Get ready to be transported back into Laos’ colonial past at the Old French Port.
Though abandoned, the sheer scale and size of this place are impressive, and you can see where boats would have been historically lowered into the water on a huge ramp.
Here, you can learn about how the Don Khon-Don Det Railway was opened to bypass the impenetrable Khone Falls, making access to the Mekong River much easier.
It was in 1893 that the French finally got what they wanted, which was access to inner China.
The dangerous rapids of the waterfall meant it was impossible for the French to get up the river.
Hence, the need for a train.
You can see the old architecture around this part of Don Khon, which is very fascinating if you enjoy learning about the history of Laos.
Cost: Free
Location: WWQX+22R, Hang Khon, Laos
Recommended time: 1-2 hours
Enjoy A Sunset On Don Det
Somehow, the sunset in Don Det and Don Khon is more special than elsewhere.
The sky can turn pink like I have never experienced before.
A nice way to experience a Don Det Sunset is to make sure you get a restaurant on the west side of the island so you can make the most of the views.
I promise you won’t regret it!
Cost: Free
Location: Western side of Don Det
Recommended time: 1-2 hours
Best Time To Visit?
Like most of Southeast Asia, the best time to visit is generally between November and February.
This is the dry season. The weather is ideal during this period. It’s not too hot, though the crowds will be much denser.
When we visited the 4000 Islands in June, the islands felt very empty.
There were other tourists cycling around, but the streets were quiet and we rarely had a meal in a packed restaurant.
This was the reason we got such a cheap deal because we went in the quieter part of the year, and we appreciated the beauty of nature much more because it was less hindered by masses of people.
Getting Around The Islands
There are only two ways to get around these two beautiful islands: walking or renting a bike.
We did both and much preferred biking. Though the tires were a little soft and rusty, slowly pedalling around was the best way to enjoy the natural surroundings.
We rarely saw tuk-tuks, but they do exist on the island. However, getting to some parts of the island can be challenging as the terrain is hilly and rocky, so you’ll need to walk at times.
Both islands are connected by the Historic Bridge. We cycled across it, finding it a beautiful spot to pause, gaze up the river, and watch the sunset.
Touring The Islands
We did a tour up the Mekong River during our visit.
Originally, the day before, we had left the pier excited for our trip, but suddenly the driver turned to us and pointed at the sky. It looked like all the rain in the world was about to fall, so we turned back. Disappointed, we decided to try the tour another day.
When we finally got to explore the river, we managed to stop and get out of the boat along one of the sand banks, an area that would be underwater when the river level is higher.
People used the river every day. Children could be seen splashing and washing in it. We would wave to them, and they waved back.
It was a couple of hours of seeing how important the Mekong River is to the region and its people.
The tour cost $10.00 for two people but was worth every penny.
Safety Wing Insurance
Final Thoughts/Conclusion
Visiting the 4000 Islands in Laos was a truly incredible travel experience I will never forget.
Laos, in general, is breathtaking with its karst limestone landscapes, waterfalls, islands, and natural beauty.
What I loved most was the incredible sense of peace and tranquillity. Even as mosquitoes gathered around the lampposts at dusk, I cherished my evening walks and bike rides around Don Det and Don Khon. Just make sure you cover up, wear repellent, and use antimalarials, as malaria is present in the 4000 Islands.
Speak with your doctor before you take any meds.
I promise you a visit to Don Det or Don Khon will stir the inner adventurer and make you want to stay in Laos even longer. Exploring the waterfalls and rivers made it feel like a real adventure in the jungle.
If you want to travel through Laos on the slow boat, read my full guide and watch my vlog for an authentic experience.
Any questions? Just drop me a message.
Thanks for reading,
James
Slow Boat Travel Vlog
FAQs
Are The 4000 Islands Worth It?
Absolutely! When we visited the 4000 Islands, we initially worried it might be too “boring.” However, the sense of calm and slow-paced vibe was a welcome change from the chaos of Phnom Penh, where we’d been beforehand. In Don Det and Don Khon, you can expect stunning waterfalls, scenic boat rides, lush landscapes, and mighty rivers.
How Do I Get To The 4000 Islands In Laos?
You can take a motorboat from Nakasong Pier to the 4000 Islands of Don Det and Don Khon. We arrived in a minivan with a group and didn’t wait long before hopping onto the small, narrow boat. The boat took us and another traveller to the pier on the north of Don Khon, making one stop at Don Det pier before completing our journey. Overall, it went very smoothly.
Which Airport Is Near The 4000 Islands?
Pakse International Airport is the nearest airport to the 4000 Islands. The distance between Nakasong pier and the airport is 150 kilometres and takes about three hours in a shared minivan. You can fly into Pakse airport from Ho Chi Minh, Vientiane and Siem Reap. Reaching Don Kohn and Don Det Laos is not so easy.
- Is Ninh Ninh Worth Visiting: My Honest Thoughts
- 15 Things To Do In Ninh Binh
- Ta Van Village: What To Expect From Your Visit
- Getting To Halong Bay From Hanoi Airport: 5 Great Options
- Where To Stay In Halong Bay: My Ultimate Guide
