The Slow Boat In Laos: My SCARY But Epic Experience
Laos Slow Boat – Getting From Laos To Thailand
The slow boat in Laos is one of those experiences that sounds idyllic in theory (drifting along the Mekong River for two days, watching the jungle-clad banks slip past) but leaves you wondering whether you’ll actually enjoy spending that much time on a wooden boat with questionable seating.
I took the slow boat from Luang Prabang to Huay Xai, staying overnight in Pak Beng, and whilst it was absolutely a breath of fresh air compared to the endless minivans and buses I’d been cramming myself into across Southeast Asia, it wasn’t without its moments of discomfort (and mild panic).
You’re probably here because you want to know the practical stuff:
How long does it actually take? Is it two days or three? What does it cost? What are the stops along the way? Is the overnight stay in Pak Beng decent or a total nightmare?
And most importantly, is the whole thing actually worth it, or should you just fly?
I’ll be honest with you (I’d normally opt for the quickest route between two points), but something about the slow boat appealed to me.
Maybe it was the promise of slowing down in a world that never seems to stop rushing. The reality? It was brilliant at times, tedious at others, and occasionally quite sketchy.
Our driver managed to crash us into some jagged rocks when the water level dropped, and at one point, we accidentally pulled up on the Thai riverbank, making us technically illegal immigrants for about five minutes until we hastily pushed off again.
If you’re a couple or solo traveller trying to work out whether this journey suits you, you’re in the right place.
I’ll walk you through everything (the route, the real timings, what to expect in Pak Beng, how comfortable or uncomfortable you’ll be) and whether it’s genuinely worth adding to your Laos itinerary.
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Is The Slow Boat From Thailand To Laos Worth It?
Absolutely, without hesitation, I urge all travellers in Laos to experience the slow boat.
If you’re tired of minivans, buses and tuk-tuks, then you can slow down and, as the name suggests and enjoy the water, the magical landscape you see along the way, and get time to think, which in today’s world is often hard to find.
Overall, it’s an affordable way to travel and is usually a real highlight for anybody who travels in Southeast Asia.
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What Should I Do On The Slow Boat For Two Days?
The slow boat in Laos is a great opportunity to do many things.
You’ll have hours of time, but I don’t recommend pulling out a laptop. Instead, I suggest you spend time doing the following:
- Interact with locals and chat
- Read
- Enjoy the nature all around
- Nap
- Take photos
- Make a vlog
- Play board games with others
- Ask questions to the locals
- Meditate
- Plan your next part of the trip
I did all of these at some stage over the two-day trip.
Some were more fun than others, but you only have a limited amount of things to do, so it’s best to make the most of your time, whatever way that may be.
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Slow Boat Packing List
You’ll spend two days on a boat, so it’s important to have all the right items with you and close at hand, more importantly.
Maybe it’s medication, maybe it’s a toothbrush, or maybe it’s a Kindle, but don’t worry, all your luggage is packed on the same boat, so you can access it later if you need to.
I made a packing list for Southeast Asia, so it can guide you more broadly for the trip to Laos, but if you’re taking the slow boat, I will list some items to have close at hand for the slow boat experience:
- medication
- Kindle/book
- cards
- water bottle
- snacks
- sunglasses
- sunscreen
- headphones
- toilet paper
Feel free to add or remove any items – it all depends on the traveller, of course.
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How You Can Book The Slow Boat
We purchased public slow boat tickets from the slow boat pier at Luang Prabang, where we departed for Pak Beng for 190,000 KIP (€8.30).
I bought our tickets two days before we set sail up the Mekong River to Pak Beng.
Later, we purchased the tickets from Pak Beng to Huay Xai only when we arrived in Pak Beng, on the boat when we were leaving.
The slow boat ticket cost was 200,000 KIP per person for this trip.
So in total, the slow boat from Luang Prabang to Huay Xai price is around 390,000 KIP (€17.00).
The only reason we did it this way was because we were passing the office when visiting Pak Ou Caves (totally worth a visit), and we got our tickets in advance.
It costs around 20,000 KIP (€0.88) for a tuk-tuk to bring you to the ticket office at the pier.
Tuk-tuks are everywhere in Luang Prabang.
Alternatively, you can buy both of your tickets at one of the many agencies in the town of Luang Prabang.
However, this will be a little more expensive.
Make sure you are not late. If the boat is full, you won’t get a ticket and will have to wait for the next boat or, in a worst-case scenario, spend another night in Pak Beng to Luang Prabang.
We were one hour early for our boats on days one and two. Thankfully, there was plenty of space.
You can buy tickets for the slow boat here if you want to plan ahead and guarantee a place on the slow boat – recommended.
If you have a larger budget, you can purchase a luxury boat to do the journey.
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Slow Boat Departure Time
The slow boat departed Luang Prabang at 08.30 AM.
We were told we would arrive at about 05.00 PM, but it was almost 07.00 PM, which was a little disappointing. This could have been due to the number of stops we made along the way.
On day two, we departed from Pak Beng at 08.30 AM and set foot on land again at 06.00 PM in Huay Xai.
Luckily, on both occasions, we arrived at the boat well in advance of the departure time, where seats were available.
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What Is Found On The Slow Boat?
Once you settle in on the slow boat, the facilities are limited.
There is a toilet, which can be very loud as it is down the back and located right beside the engine.
I found there to be not a lot of toilet paper. You did have the option to use shared slippers to enter the toilet if you didn’t want to use your footwear.
It was clean enough in my experience, nothing to be over-worried about.
There is a small shop to buy noodles, tea, coffee, and beer. The cost ranged between 15,000-20,000 KIP (€0.70-0.80).
The seats on day one were wooden with a soft cushion to sit on. Day two was different. We had seats which seemed to have been removed from a small minivan and were much more comfortable.
You could adjust the seats, too. Need more room? Slide them back? Too much room? Slide them forward.
As long as you didn’t upset the other passengers, it was flexible.
Each seat had a life jacket, which was good to see (and mildly worrying at the same time).
PRO TIP – Make sure you sit at the front of the riverboat if you can. The journey is long, and unless you want to have ringing ears and a headache from the noise, sit up front.
Here, the early bird catches the worm.
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Eating And Drinking On The Slow Boat
I would suggest you bring food and water with you.
As mentioned above, there is a small shop where you can buy pot noodles, tea/coffee and beer. But for two days, it can be bland.
We brought Oreos (how nutritious!) and nuts with us. It is better to bring something more filling. We also took a takeaway lunch from Pak Beng for day two.
This saved us!
The days are long on the slow boat, so best to keep the belly from grumbling as you make the journey.
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Day 1 On The Slow Boat: Luang Prabang To Pak Beng
On the first day, it was a beautiful and serene trip from Luang Prabang to Pak Beng.
As you slowly make your way up the Mekong River, you will see life happen in rural Laos. It’s magical.
Fishermen can be seen casting their nets into the water. Monks swim as do the children. Women will hop off the boat onto the rocky riverside.
It will be evident how important the Mekong is to the people who live beside it.
We had many pleasant interactions with the locals. Don’t be afraid to chat and interact. Why not make some friends along the way?
Our driver started drinking beer in the last hour with the staff, which we found to be a little dangerous. Anyway, we made it safely to our pier in Pak Beng and all was good (for now).
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Slow Boat Overnight Stop At Pak Beng
All travellers stay a night in the small riverside town of Pak Beng.
We stayed at Monsavanh Guesthouse for 250,000 KIP (€11.00). No Breakfast was included. An elderly couple ran the guesthouse, and they were friendly to interact with.
We did have wifi, which was slow but worked. You can consider some esims for the trip. The toilet was clean and had a good shower. There will be no shortage of places to stay.
As we went in early July, it was less busy than later in the year, so we had many options.
Exactly what we needed after such a trip.
The sun was setting when we arrived, and there were a few ladies who offered rooms to us rooms as we set foot onto land. Usually, they will be holding signs with information about their accommodation.
Although we had booked our hotel on the first morning on the boat before we departed, we wouldn’t have needed to do this. Keep in mind it was in low season (start of July).
It would be a little cheaper to book with them directly when we arrive, rather than on booking.com.
Still, it would have been pennies in the difference.
We stayed in a hotel only a few hundred metres from the pier in Huay Xai. We purchased breakfast the next morning.
It consisted of mixed fruit with some yoghurt and honey. A bagel with ham and cheese, which was very tasty and filling for about 45,000 KIP (€2.00).
We also bought our lunch from this very kind lady in the same restaurant, stir-fried rice with vegetables for about the same cost.
Laos is very cheap to travel and eat in, especially.
The accommodation options above have decent to very good reviews with hundreds of people rating them. There are many restaurants in Pak Beng with tasty Laotian food, as you can see below.
Just make sure you have enough cash to pay for it.
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ATM in Pak Beng
When we visited, there was only one ATM in Pak Beng – the JDB ATM, though we later discovered another further inland.
If either machine fails, you’ll be stuck, so I’d recommend bringing enough cash for a few days. We withdrew a small amount from the ATM without issue, but it’s better to be prepared.
Bring enough cash for three or four days, just in case.
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Arriving In Huay Xai On The Slow Boat From Luang Prabang
We arrived at Huay Xai in daylight.
The driver will help you walk the plank onto the land. If you cannot carry all your bags, he will assist you.
Once on land, we stayed at a hotel at the end of the road near the pier called Seng Tiane Thong Guesthouse. We paid 150,000 KIP for the two of us (€6.60) for one night.
We could barely communicate with the owner, but we did eventually get a room. It was very basic, and the shower worked fine.
Nothing to write home about, but did enough for one night. Later, when we had settled into our room, we had to find a bus ticket to Chiang Rai. There are an endless number of guesthouses or restaurants that offer bus services.
Had we opted to leave at 07.30 AM, we could have paid 300,000 KIP (€14.00. But as we wanted to sleep in after such a long trip, we opted for the 03.30 PM bus for 350,000 KIP.
Be aware that you will likely be charged an extra fee for buying them with a debit card of 3%.
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Crossing The Laos-Thai Border
We got collected in a pickup truck outside our hotel.
We waited about twenty minutes longer than expected, but once he showed up, we jumped in and made our way over the Laos-Thai friendship bridge.
When we arrived at the Chiang Khong Border Checkpoint, our driver came in with us, which was a little odd, but he took care of us. We got our pictures taken, and the official stamped our passports. It was straightforward.
The driver issued us a sticker and a bus ticket. Then it was a waiting game.
We were waiting over an hour for our big bus to leave for Chiang Rai. Finally, we made our way to the Thai checkpoint, where we joined a smaller minivan with six other tourists.
A couple of hours later, we were having a beer in Chiang Rai!
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Final Thoughts/Conclusion
Okay, so apart from nearly sinking in the Mekong River only 10km from Huay Xai, it was a wonderful travel experience that I will never forget.
We had no real issue getting tickets.
The staff on the boat were friendly and helpful. The locals wanted to interact, making for a beautifully engaged journey.
The rain didn’t affect us as we were covered very well and protected from some showers and the hot sun. Watching the locals use the river in their daily lives was warming and humbling.
I admire them so much for their way of life, which seems much more sustainable and honest.
Many travellers go to Chiang Mai or Chiang Rai from Huay Xai, and it is a much more scenic way to travel than by bus.
If you don’t have time to spend two days on a boat or simply don’t like boats, you can always take a bus instead, which will be quicker and likely more familiar.
I can only advise travellers of thinking to think about making the journey to jump at the opportunity. I have read that the government is constructing a dam soon, and it may result in the possibility of taking the slow boat impossible.
If you have time now, then go for it. You won’t regret it.
Any questions? Just drop me a message.
Thanks for reading,
James
FAQs
How Long Does The Slow Boat To Laos Take?
The slow boat to or from Luang Prabang takes generally two days. The first leg took us ten hours before we stopped in Pak Beng. The second day took roughly the same amount of time. It will depend on the river current and how many people get on and off during the trip. Usually, travellers stay in rooms in Pak Beng for one night before continuing the slow boat journey.
How Much Does A Laos Slow Boat Cost?
You can expect to pay about 340,000 KIP (€15.00) for the slow boats to make the full trip from Luang Prabang to Huay Xai. I bought my tickets individually. The Luang Prabang ticket to Pak Beng, I got two days before we left. We were on another tour and passing the ticket office. I bought my ticket to Huay Xai once we arrived in Pakbeng. As I mentioned before, there were no issues. There were many fewer people on the leg to Hauy Xai.
Is There A Toilet On The Slow Boat To Laos?
Yes, there is a toilet on the slow boat in Laos. If you want to see exactly what the boat toilet is like, I suggest you watch my YouTube video where I show everything you need to know about the slow boat experience in Laos. I took the boat from Luang Prabang to Huay Xai and loved the experience. The toilet is noisy and not the most comfortable, but it does the job.
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